You could have a look at the Ronseal Diamond Hard Floor Varnish which is an easy to apply hard wearing and durable finish. The darkening that occurs from doing that will show you roughly how the oil will affect the wood. I would always recommend the Osmo Polyx Oil over a Danish Oil. After the second application, it has remained sticky for a week, probably because I didn’t wipe off the excess soon enough. Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. hi It requires less coats that the Danish and is far more hard wearing. Worst case we are considering putting a sheet of glass over the top to protect it. I would be interested to see where it says it is a possible use for laminate as this to my knowledge is not true. It is a good product to consider, food safe, durable and easy to apply, clean and maintain. If you like the silvering effect of the Sun then the Teak Oil requires less coats but has a longer drying time and the Danish Oil has a shorter drying time but needs more coats. 3. I am thinking of using a Fiddes American tinted hard wax oil to even out the colour difference but Fiddes tell me that I would need to sand back again. Boiled linseed oil, on the other hand, ‘only’ takes a day to dry. As it is peeling and flaking it could be either a paint or a varnish and for stripping this you could consider Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover. Please let me know if you have any further questions. I am on the top floor where there are a ton of huge old wood beams which are part of the structure and the roof. For the bathroom I would also recommend a first coat of the Osmo Wood Protector, which will prevent the wood from going brittle over time. Thanks. I’d like to keep and enhance the natural look and thought that Danish oil would be the best option, however this seems to be fairly maintenance intensive. If you need something a bit more durable than a wax you could have a look at a Hard Wax Oil which will soak in to the surface of the wood and is easy to keep clean and maintain over time, requiring far less top ups than a wax may do. Teak oil again ok? The 429 Natural will have some white pigment in it to counteract the darkening impact of a clear oil. This particular oil is slightly thinner and suited to hardwood with a tighter grain. Sapele is a very dense wood and as a result, not all wood oils are suitable for this wood. Feel free to let me know if you have any further questions. Have a read up of the product and feel free to come back to me if you have any questions. (A truly excellent website and enquiry service by the way.) We are renovating a thirty five year old home that has a variety of wood inside. Hi there, I have just acquired a large bear wood carving, which has been indoors for some months and is starting to crack, so I want to oil it with something before I put it outside in the garden. Reply. The wood has warped and swelled where the varnish has weathered away and flaked off and water has penetrated, so it’s a question of replacing and protecting the wood going forwards. this will help to narrow down some suitable options for you. Could you please advise of treatments to use to protect the wood and waterproof it as much as possible. If you are using wood as a chopping board you may need to be careful as cutting into the wood can disturb the spores,but in most cases they are harmless unless you have an intolerance. They have spent several years drying and all the bark has fallen off. Many veneer doors say that you can not use oils or stains and to go ahead and using these products will invalidate any guarantee that you have. It is also used mainly for boat, bow and arrowwood, kitchenware, and boxes woods! You can always come back to me if it doesn’t work and you need more advice. I hope this helps and feel free to let me know if you have any further questions. Very thin application is required with this product and a test area is always recommended first to ensure the product works well for your project and that you like the finish that will be achieved. Excellent blog, apologies if you have already covered this one: Indoor kitchen table, made from reclaimed teak, untreated, has quite a deep grain. It is worth noting that when you apply the protective coat on top of the stain it is likely to darken slightly. Danish oil makes an excellent wood floor oil, but modern proprietary products are sometimes easier to work with. It may be worth rubbing over lightly with some White Spirit to remove that excess oil but be careful not to remove the first coat. I am replacing the wood slats in an outdoor park bench. Which would be better for flooring, Danish oil or Osmo oil? 3 to 4 coatings of oil should suffice, with excess oil being wiped away after application. You can wait for a couple of years for the oil to wear away and then lightly sand to remove any left over, and then treat with the preservative. It is undercover and I don’t want to change the natural light colour. Firstly, will the oil protect the wood against everyday showers with hot water? You can email me directly at wood@finishes.direct, Just stumbled across your feed and hoping you can help me out…. An exterior oil will be easier to maintain and repair should the need arise. The bottoms have greyed, along with the fencing. If the stain is a dark colour then this means that the water has soaked deeper into the wood and is a little harder to remove. The best thing to do is to a small test area to see what it makes your wood look like. hi And so a thinner oil is more suited, however as long as the Osmo Polyx Oil has absorbed into the surface of the wood there should be no problems. Yes I would advise to clean the stains before oiling. Would you kindly give me a step by step process on how I would attempt this and which oils you would recommend? Oil is one of the most popular ways to finish wood. Once this has dried a good quality wood oil such as Ronseal Ultimate Protection Decking Oil which comes in a range of colours including Natural and Dark Oak will give good protection and resistance against foot traffic and weathering. I’m pretty sure I can’t abrase further to try to blend in as I’m the surface would not be too thin. And these Cotton Rags would be ideal for doing this. Although glossy, with oils is not as reflective as with a varnish and this Polyx Oil is thicker in viscosity than the 1101 Extra Thin and so will be less willing to soak into the woods surface. My question is, what is the best oil to treat it with? We have just installed a new exterior (factory painted) door with an unfinished mahogany threshold. I hope that sets your mind at rest and if you have any other questions please do let me know. Danish oil and teak oil can be applied with a soft brush, rag or piece of cloth, with each applied layer of oil needing to be sanded lightly with fine sandpaper. Thanks for your very informative and helpful website. I recently decided to switch to using natural products for wood finishing but have little experience with any of them. Hope asking these questions are ok. I’m making a duct board to go into a wet area of a shower, I’m using teak wood. We have a solid oiled oak ‘engineered'(?) What would you recommend please? If possible, could you answer a coupl of quick questions i have?. It is a great stripper for old and new paints and varnishes but test areas are strongly recommended to ensure there are no adverse reactions. So that said I would recommend the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural which is designed to leave the wood looking untreated and natural but still offering good protection. I hope this gives you some ideas to go forward with and if you have any more questions feel free to ask away – Sam. The Polyx is available in sample sizes and I would always recommend a test area first. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. I have a 60 year old Burma teak hutch (which I will be stripping down to refinish) and am in the process of choosing a dining table which will be custom made. For sink areas and areas that are susceptible to moisture, I would recommend the Osmo Wood Protector this is a base coat product that boosts the protection and durability of the wood. Also, BLO isn’t typically recommended for exterior wood but perhaps alongside the shou sugi ban protection this would give ample finish to the timber. There is very little UV protection in this oil however so wood may continue to silver a little over time. I don’t want to lose this all important grain texture in the process of cleaning up and preserving the wood, so what procedure and oils would you recommend? From reading previous replies I am thinking a preservative then a wax oil? 2. Our goal is to finish with something that will make the wood grain look wet. For a hard wearing and protective oil you could look at the Osmo Polyx Oil which require two thin coats and is available in a range of sheen levels.