This is a false perception. Now I got people telling me I need a sealer before I put poly down. I’m also hoping to avoid grouting the pennies (purely aesthetic reasons, and because I apparently like making my life harder than it needs to be) and to use the poly to fill in between – though I’m far from sure this is possible. Yes, dustless is awesome and will severely reduce the dust. Never wax polyurethaned floors, as that can dull the finish. If your floors get a scratch, it’s an easy job to touch them up, though; just buff more oil into the damaged spot. And, it would probably cost you an arm and a leg. Penetrating oils generally dry very slowly—often requiring an entire day between coats—so this isn’t a quick do-it-yourself project. It has little odor during application, which is a big benefit if you plan on finishing the floors yourself. Jan – Bona Traffic HD is much better (and probably more expensive, but worth it!). Do you think this is a good or bad idea? Please note that these are products I know/use and recommend to my customers. StreetShoe would be my 2nd choice water borne polyurethane. And contractor is going to have another guy come take a look (we’re pretty sure he will cover the cost since it’s clearly an error no matter what). No, it is oil based. The all-purpose one is best for houses with a … I’m going to share the best poly brands for both forms. I am painting a piece of vinyl flooring to use as a rug under my dining table. You won’t apply this yourself, though; aluminum oxide is only available as an option on prefinished flooring planks. Generally, if you are getting a much lower price on refinishing using a water borne poly, chances are the installer is using an inferior water borne product. Jacquee – That sounds like a regional brand, and I’m not familiar with it, so I can’t comment intelligently about it. , ours looks sort of sticky and “furry.” but it was covered up for the rest of the construction/painting/kitchen install and the paper was just removed. What do you know about “dustless” sanding? Or does it look like the tinted sealant has been used? Looking for best poly that doesn’t yellow at all for white oak. I can’t imagine it being thick enough for penny/penny rounds, and you would need many coats. A. Thx for your help! Barry – No, you can’t slow down the drying time (unless you switch polyurethanes). The polyurethane is the coating that gives your floor its protection. What do you think I should use, Poly or water in the two brands you recommend? What about Pro Finisher by Parks Water Based Polyurethane for floors, Professional Grade? Great site!! Thanks. Best for: Creating a low-shine finish that highlights the grain of the wood. (this architect used the same wood and product for this house (his), he confirmed in email as well as in the story.) The dustless machine will probably take care of 90-95% of dust. You usually grout these. Oil-based polyurethane offers … my questions are, Best for: High-traffic areas or anywhere you want supreme protection from wear and tear Pros: The hardest, most long-lasting type of finish; low maintenance; available in several levels of glossiness Cons: Difficult to touch up or refinish; only available on prefinished wood planks. Note: If you go natural (regardless of poly), it will highlight the differences between the 2 species. We use this when our customers want (or are required by their co-op) to use water borne poly, but their budget won’t accommodate Bona Traffic. The same sub already has made several mistakes previously that we let go. Hardwood floor finishes. Shellac naturally dries to with an orange tint and high-gloss finish, although it can be bleached or tinted as well as mixed with extra denatured alcohol to create a more matte surface.

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